Following their visit to the smoggy, feel-bad climes of late seventies-era Manchester last season, it appears that the Bespoken boys were in need of some fresh air. Hence, the new collection from the brothers Fayed and Goncalves explored an outdoorsy vibe, riffing on the look of turn-of-the-twentieth-century hunters, gamekeepers, and outlaws. The resulting clothes had a fittingly rugged aspect, nothing too new, after a few years of “heritage” everything, but appealing nonetheless.
That appeal was largely to be found in the collection”s textural sophistication. A horizontally striped jacket with poacher”s pockets, for instance, came in a dense yet supple fox flannel. Check shirting, in fabrics retrieved from the Turnbull & Asser archives, was as soft as chamois cloth. Melange wool sweaters, in a melting stripe, felt cloudy to the touch. And even the label”s traditional Henley got some tenderizing: This season, it”s been executed in double-faced fine cotton, and quilted. All the tempting comfort of the Bespoken materials was counterpoised against dandyish suiting pieces in a suite of unexpected patterns, such as tonal gray camo, and gray/burgundy check.
Bespoken is in the midst of a growth spurt: The brand recently opened its new atelier in the heart of financial midtown, and it is about to set up shop at Saks Fifth Avenue as well. In addition, the designers are continuing to develop their range of shoes. This season, the collection grows to nine styles, including a fine leather-and-suede lace-up boot that nicely captures the natty-yet-hardy tone of the season.