Jen Kao”s show notes (accompanied by an original poem each season) are often a touch fanciful: “A foxy approach, polished but cagey. East meets West for nightcaps,” said the program this time around. A cryptic statement, to be sure. But as the models stalked down the runway to a very David Lynch-ian soundtrack, Kao”s cinematic vision for Fall began to unfold, and the result was actually more wearable than what we”ve come to expect from this imaginative young designer.
The opening series of military-inspired fur barn coats added a masculine tenor to the lavish oriental silk robes, dip-dyed fringe, and needlepoint Swarovski mesh. Kao”s favorite piece—a cassis-colored, lacquered trenchdress with fan pleating—best illustrated the balance between rigid and fragile she was aiming for, while exotic python briefcases and statement crystal strand earrings played up the quixotic side of the lineup. These were the kind of clothes you could picture real-life rocker girls like Zoe Kravitz (who sat front-row tonight) wearing out on the town after sunset.